ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA XXX Autumn Winter 2020


Life, streamed. A makeshift runway creates a blade of crossroads in the open spaces in the hall of Milano Centrale, the railway station which is a landmark in the city. A place for infinite passage, where individuals in all walks of life have met for almost a century, and continue to do it every hour every day, arrive and depart. This diversity-driven place seems like a lively backdrop of a collection that is a link of diversity.

"The borders continue to decline worldwide – says Zegna artistic director Alessandro Sartori – I felt anxious to advocate the openness and diversity of the power through my own means as a fashion designer, to express awareness and responsibility at every step of the creative process, from textile making to designing new categories of clothing to the stage at the fashion show in such a meaningful place. By doing so, I continue to make my view of the modern metropolitan wardrobe: an idea of ‚Äč‚Äčtailoring for a transgender of global customers "

This season, a soft sense of formality, adapted to the concrete jungle's industrial drum, appears to match the needs of fast, cohesive life. Categories are mixed and hybridized: jackets have outer pockets; shirts become jackets in boxy, functional volumes; Bluson's sport custom necklace; load pants are delicate. Even the quilted puff jackets are designed in tailor-made atelier and have an enhanced touch. The silhouette is personal, simple and tense. Outerwear, either long or cropped, is dramatic and bulky, with bubble bombs, quilted parks with removable collar and knitted overcoats. jackets have lean, longer volumes, hidden closures and geometric pockets; the whole pants narrow towards the elastic bottom. Knitting is a building block that provides additional textural stimulation. The energy of the connection is accentuated by the tense mix of patterns: jacquards singularly adapted to each garment; Texture weave of cashmere, paper and leather; slogan and metropolitan scenes were transformed into bold visual abstractions either as print or jacquard. The view is grounded with dazzling zippers and multi-material sneakers, with the iconic Cesare available for complete customization, as #MyCesare is launched online at tonight's show. Those seeking to personalize with My Cesare can do so in the store, at selected Ermenegildo Zegna stores worldwide and online after-show at Farfetch and WeChat. In keeping with the independent functional mood, the bags are spacious and geometric, with modular solutions.

Fusion and manipulation is also by means of bywords. Under the slogan #UseTheExisting, the collection, which is supported by the Zegna Textile Division, is almost entirely made of exclusive wool, cashmere and nylon fabric created with innovative processes from existing sources. The result is a luxuriously flexible yet responsible manufacturing that is recycled as well as recyclable. The exclusive fabrics give a dense, textured glitter to a metropolitan palace of white, Felt, Commissar and Warsaw grays, Beluga Black, Notte Blue, Khaki, Syberian Green, illuminated by Absinthe and Citrin quartz and fused in melted compositions.

The diversities are connected, at all levels and flowing across all the screens of the Milan Centrale for passersby to enjoy and further connect.