It may sound a little dramatic but everyone who has experienced it a bottom paint job says there is nothing worse. Trust me, as someone whose hair was once dyed orange instead of the Serena Van Der Woodsen blonde, it's pretty fucking heartbreaking. Not only does killing your hair in a salon can be extremely expensive, but you also put your hair through intense damage, and often, when it goes wrong, it is a long road to recovery.
To prevent your hair from going through the same hair dye disaster, we talked to one of London's best hair color artists, Tom Drury from Chelsea salon Williams & Rice, who specializes in hair color correction. Tom ran us through the most common hair color disasters, how to fix them and how to completely avoid them. So no matter what hair color loss you experience, you will know what to do.
Problem 1: Botched Highlights
"One of the most common corrections I see over London is botchical highlights, Tom says. "It's a very general term, but if you've seen them, you know exactly what falls into this category." There can be a whole range of things from uneven color to color that look striped instead of mixed, with brass or worse, green shades coming through. “This is especially common with blonde highlights. Being blonde is addictive, and it is very easy to be made to book appointments too early and request the wrong service, ”Tom adds.
"Working with highlights is about finding the perfect balance, given the natural hair color and creating the right amount of contrast." Says Tom.
First, to prevent botchical highlights, Tom recommends that you "avoid using more than two different colors in a set of foils because too many will eventually fade out brass and uneven." So do not be afraid to consult your stylist and make this request … Trust us, it will make all the difference.
“A temporary solution might be to blur the highlights just down at the root, this can take off the edge, if the hair is too streaky or if there are too many highlights, to begin with. If the final result is totally too blonde, then toning would be the best quick fix, but I would consider toning through the middle lengths and ends as well. It may also be necessary to add some darker pieces. ”Explains Tom.
To make sure you never have the same problems Tom recommends, "The long-term solution to this is to find a colorist who can pick up the same highlights every time and stick to them." Remember guys, with color, texture is key.
Problem 2: Botched Color
According to Tom "Botchy, uneven, colors are the usual situation with brunettes and I have seen everyone possible over the years." (Eek) "They are often seen when customers with tinted hair quickly try to get easier and the solutions are usually quite simple. Although the simple does not always mean easy and certainly does not mean low maintenance. The techniques used are simple, but they may need to do several times during a service when your new colorist learns your hair and discovers what has led to the problem in the first place. "
As with most hair color corrections, the color solution is different depending on the color you are trying to achieve. Tom begins "If areas in the hair are too ash (gray / blue / green) they must be cleaned gently or sometimes just neutralized (with a warmer tone on top)." While "If the areas are too hot (or brass), then they can be neutralized with a cooler tone." But "the reality is that uneven color usually means an uneven condition. The first session should be about combining the hair color and then making a plan for next, says Tom.
Problem 3: faded color
"Almost every color fades, but the degree of bleaching comes down to the formula (and application) used and how the hair is treated outside the salon," explains Tom.
Surprisingly, he adds "Unless you are a light red, you have used pastel shades, or you have just gone from blonde to dark, you should not have to rely on color-protecting products. Some colors require more maintenance, which can mean professional toning in This should be explained to you during the service. "For example, if you have become platinum blonde, you may need to go to a tonal treatment in the salon to keep the color fresh and icy.
Problem 4: Fragile, damaged hair
"Everyone's hair is different, but if you suffer from chemically damaged hair or if you use a lot of heat during styling, a combination of Olaplex and the right home care products will do wonders."
Like many hairdressers and colorists, Tom says, “In my opinion, Olaplex has been the biggest game changer in my career so far. Basically, it recreates artificial missing bindings in your hair, allowing your moisturizing and enhancing treatments to work. If the hair has no bindings, is it really hair? "
"Of course, regular hairstyles are always recommended as it gets rid of all split ends and makes your hair look fuller and healthier." Tom adds, however, "If you want to forgo a haircut now and then, you should have an Olaplex service and invest in good shampoo / conditioner. My favorite haircut products are Redken, Pureology and Shu Uemura."
For more tips on hair dye, read our ultimate guide to dyeing your hair.